Showing posts with label Anders. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Anders. Show all posts

Jan 8, 2012

Hold on!

Week one is coming to an end, time to sum up.

I finished with some tough bouldering today to try and establish my weaknesses using certain holds, also did they same on rope earlier in the week. From what I can tell after just two sessions of this, I seem to feel stronger while crimping than climbing slopers generally, however the idea is to NOT crimp and instead try to climb open handed only (might not be that big of a surprise, I think most novice climbers have weaker open hand/sloping grip strengths compared to crimping), so I will consciously work on that. Slopers are always kind of awkward to climb, especially with high foot placements and while moving sideways, keeping balance and body tension and so forth. So a little of that too in the mix!

However, I do not feel that one certain type of hold is giving me any special problems, so I will probably not need one-type-of-hold-only-training. Instead, I will work on all holds and the techniques behind using all of them. I think I can make faster improvements with my body and foot technique than what kind of hold I'm grabbing, so the technical part of the training will definitely be more about that.

Next week will unfortunately be very busy for me workwise so no climbing during the week, but I will have time next weekend. Will do some endurance, power, and strength training respecively to find a ... rhythm in the training, see how much I can do before I get tired, how to set up the different exercises, how long they take, if I need to supplement the climbing with gym exercises, fingerboard etc. So more detective work in other words...

Jan 2, 2012

Going south already?

Six-fourteen. A.M. Monday. On a train going south. Work.

So this is how OneMoreMove is going to start? Me running off to some lonesome smalltown out in the middle of the Swedish forest of the south (this part of Sweden is friggin' called "Little land" for cryin' out loud)? Well I do love the work I do and even though climbing has quickly become a passion for me, it takes time to adjust everything else to it. "I have a plan", is all I can say. Getting to it is the trick!

So, let's get this show on the road!

Leaving for our Tour-de-mediterráneo in the middle of June... that means we got about 5.5 months to get in shape, get enough lead experience in us, plan the trip and just get psyched about all the climbing ahead of us. Sounds waay longer than it will actually be in the end.

For me, since I finished off last year with a nasty finger injury and bucket-loads of work, step 1 for me is just figuring out where and how much I suck. How scared am I to fall? How's my climbing technique? Am I better at slopy, pinchy or crimpy routes? Slabs, overhangs, dead verticals?

While away on work I'll do cardio (there's definitely some traces courtesy of mums christmas food and sweets I'd like to rid myself of like a bad ex) and what little bouldering I can get my hands on. Växjö is known neither for its rocky landscape (It's flat, OK!) nor its volumous amount of large climbing gyms (I've nicknamed the local climbing gym "the box", pics to follow) so I'll make due with what's on offer.

I'll also upload the training schedule as soon as I can. It's basically a google calendar visible to all. That way I can both have it easily accessible for myself ("if it aint in my iPhone cal, it don't exist") and share it to the wider audience.

I'm actually not as super psyched as I thought I'd be going into 2012, but I feel it growing. I need to 'get back into the swing of things' a little I think. Finding the routine I had back in November. Also need to find a pace together with Em, her trainer and with all my other climbing buddies.

Might be a slow start, but the wheels are slowly turning!

Seven-oh-seven. AM. Monday. Time to get to work. *Yaaawn*